PHOTOGRAPHY

 Focus: The Complete Guide to Mastering Focus in Photography

  One important technique to understand in photography, especially when you are starting out, is what is called Focus.

  Focus can make or break the image, where you can drop the exposure; Or your image composition may not be what you want it to be; Even the lighting or timing can be inappropriate, however, and it may still be possible to get a stunning shot if you master the focus. But if the focus is out, there is nothing to do but hit the delete button.

  That's why in this guide to Focus in Photography, we'll discuss how to get the most out of your camera's photography focus points. From learning how to focus in-camera with both manual focus and autofocus and modes, to applying it in real life.

  By the end of reading this article, you will have so much information about focus that you will eventually learn how to master it on your own!

The Focus 

   1. What is the focus of photography?

  The viewfinder is just like your eyes. You can see something clearly only after you focus on it.

  For example, if you put your finger in front of your eyes and focus on it, you will notice that what is behind is blurry (meaning outside the focus area), perhaps you can recognize other things in the environment around your finger, from the "corner of your eye". Note, however, that anything either in front of or behind your finger appears somewhat opaque. You will see a scene like this:

  Now move your eyes to one of those objects in the background and try to look at it, your focus will shift from the finger to that object. In this case, your finger is what will appear blurry. This is simply the focus.

  The viewfinder works the same way.

  For example, you were walking in the city streets, and suddenly a cat caught your attention with its sexy gray fur, course you would want to take a picture of that cat only and make the background blur because it's not interesting, how will you tell the camera that you want a picture where this cat will only appear clear? In the sense of a picture of the cat only.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III 35mm f/1.8 1/500s ISO200

  The camera will tell this by setting the focus on this cat! But the blurry background comes through adjusting the aperture, meaning when you adjust the focus, you tell the camera about your main subject in the image, then you set the aperture to a small number such as f/1.8 if you want a narrow depth of field, that is, everything is blurry except for your subject, or you adjust it At a number as large as f/16 if you want a deep depth of field, meaning all elements of the image are sharp or crisp.

  For more information on how to creatively control depth of field by manipulating aperture values, feel free to visit our article at this link.

  But wait! How about landscape photos that don't have the main subject to focus on? This's what we will answer in the following paragraphs.

  Now that you know what focus means in photography, it's time to learn about the types of focus in your camera (manual focus and automatic focus), we'll learn how the different focus modes work, and which one is best suited for different types of situations.

   2. Manual Focus

  In the early days of photography, focusing was only manual. Autofocus is a relatively new invention in the history of photography that first appeared on the market in 1977.

  When using manual focus, you are on your own, and your ability to achieve the correct focus to capture a perfectly sharp subject.

  Manual focus is generally suitable for shooting still subjects. Or if your camera is having trouble focusing, such as in dark conditions, manual focus or focus lets you bypass any issues, and works best if you're able to use a tripod. In the photo below, I wanted to focus on my hand using the autofocus, but due to the low-light conditions, the camera had trouble focusing. So I used the manual focus, rotated the ring in the lens until I saw my hand clear, and then took the picture.

sony a6300 f/1.8 1/100s ISO100

  Landscape, studio, and macro are types where manual fox works as well.

  Autofocus systems use a motor in the camera, or in the lens, to focus on your subject. So, just point the camera at your subject, press a button on it, and it will focus on your chosen subject.

  Most photographers use automatic focus more than manual focus. The main reason is simply convenience; It's easier than focusing manually. Autofocus also tends to be faster, and in many cases also more accurate (such as tracking focus on a moving subject). This is why sports and wildlife photographers tend to rely so heavily on autofocus.

  Although most photographers use automatic focus more than manual focus, it is a good idea to familiarize yourself with both.

  How to use Manual Focus

  Modern cameras are designed so that you can use the automatic, accurate focus of the image in most conditions. However, there are many situations where you will find yourself forced to manually focus on the subject you want to photograph.

  If you are trying to improve your photography skills and the quality of your photos, consider learning how to better manually focus your photos.

  Although the manual focus may seem intimidating, it is much simpler than most novice photographers think.

  First, you need to switch the lens from autofocus to manual focus. You do this by either moving the switch on the side of the lens from AF to MF or from A to M depending on the lens. You may find this button or you can access it through the menu.

  Next, bring the camera to your eyes and frame the shot. Half-press the shutter button to start focusing.

  Then rotate the lens' focus ring, to bring the subject into sharp focus.

  But beware! The focus ring is not the same as the zoom ring.

  The zoom ring is located near the camera body, while the focus ring is at the end of the lens. As shown in the picture below.

  Once you focus on the target, press the shutter button well to take the picture.

  Using manual focus with the help of the camera

  Camera makers know how difficult it can be to use manual focus, so many of them are equipping their cameras with features to assist.

  when you rotate the focus ring to focus on your target, On a Nikon camera, view the lower-left corner of the LCD screen or Viewfinder. When your image is in focus, a circle will appear in that place, and when it is not, you will see there are arrows indicating which direction to adjust.

  On a Canon camera, the focus point in focus will light up when the appropriate focus is achieved. The focus confirmation light will also turn on.

   3. AUTOFOCUS Modes

  Most digital cameras are equipped with several different focus modes for many situations. Where you will find an automatic focus mode that is suitable for photographing a selfie of a stationary person and another mode for photographing a person running or a bird flying.

  When shooting still subjects, you focus on your subject once and take a picture. If the subject moves, you can refocus it in its new location again and take another photo. But if your target is constantly moving like a soccer player for example, then you cannot focus on your target in one place because you don't know its movements.

  The good news is that the camera has built-in functions to deal with such situations. Let's move on to these focus modes in more detail.

  AF-S / ONE-SHOT AF (Single Autofocus)

  Single Autofocus is one of the least intelligent modes. If you focus on your subject and it moves, the camera will not set focus again to track it. So you will have to focus on it again.

  This mode is suitable for shooting stationary subjects, such as portraits, macros, and architecture, where there is no need to track a moving subject.

50mm f/4 1/125s ISO200

  And using it is very easy! First, after entering the list of automatic focus modes, choose AF-S if you have a Nikon or ONE-SHOT AF on Canon, point the camera at your fixed subject, then press half-press the shutter button until you get focus, meaning you see your subject clear and more accuracy, and then finally press the shutter button to take the picture.

  I always use AF-S for landscape photography and narrow apertures like f/16 because it gives me a wide depth of field, meaning all the image elements are crisp.

35mm f/7.1 1/500s ISO160

  AUTOFOCUS Continuous

  Denoted by AF Continuous on Sony or AF-C Mode on Nikon, it is also known as “AI Servo” in the Canon world. This mode is used to track moving subjects, such as shooting sports, wildlife, and fast motion. The camera will continue to track your subject if it moves within the frame.

  The nice thing about AF-C mode is that it will automatically reset focus if you or your subject moves. All you have to do is hold the shutter button halfway down, or press the dedicated AF button often called in the camera the AF-On button (if you have one) I explain its function below, the camera will do its best to follow your subject with Keep the focus on him. The camera detects the movement of your subject and constantly refocuses it to keep it in focus as long as you hold the shutter button halfway.

  Now I guess you're wondering: Why don't I simply use the continuous focus mode on the camera all the time instead of the Single AUTOFOCUS mode?

  First, continuous AUTOFOCUS is not as effective as Single AUTOFOCUS when the target is stationary. Because it needs a lot of processing power and lens adjustments, which makes it drain your battery life even more.

  Also, the continuous autofocus mode does not always work, as the camera technology is not perfect.

  Depending on your subject's movements, shallowness of depth of field, focus speed of the lens, and lighting conditions, your camera may constantly gain and lose focus. When that happens and you end up with an out-of-focus picture where your subject is blurry, your only chance is to get out of the mess; It is the use of software to make blurry images clear such as Topaz Sharpen AI.

   Auto AF or AF-A

  Some cameras also have a mode called AF-A on Nikon, or AI Focus AF on Canon, which is basically a mode that automatically switches between AF-S and AF-C modes. If the camera thinks the subject is stationary, it automatically switches to AF-S, and if the subject moves, it automatically switches to AF-C mode,

  Not many professional /high-end cameras have this mode, as it is designed for beginners.

  By setting the camera's autofocus to this mode, you're ready to shoot particularly challenging subjects, like wildlife and young children, who move in sudden bursts of speed before they decide they want to pause and check out something on the ground. This makes AF-A mode the best choice in situations where subject movement is unpredictable.

500mm f/8 1/500s ISO250

  How to change the camera's autofocus modes

  First, you will need to set the mode dial to a mode other than the automatic modes (the modes are in red in the image below). All the information about the camera modes you can see on this disc and how they work, as well as where and when to use them! You'll find it all in this complete guide to mastering camera poses.

 

 As for the AUTOFOCUS modes, since these modes are one of the most basic functions of the camera, you should Advance usually have quick buttons to quickly change between different AF modes; For example, Nikon AF modes are set in the lower-left area of ​​the camera. Simply press the button and use the rear dial to switch from AF-S to AF-C focus modes. But keep in mind that the button location varies depending on the camera model.

  While on Canon, you can access Canon AF modes using the Menu, or the dedicated Drive AF button found on high-end models. Once pressed, use the control dial to choose the camera's autofocus mode (One Shot, AI Servo, AI Focus).

  To switch between Sony's different autofocus modes, you can do so using the Fn button or any dedicated quick button.

  After you've selected the autofocus mode that best suits your chosen topic, it's time to select the focus area mode. Do not panic! Read on and you will understand everything.

   4. AF-Area Mode

  AF-Area Modes, you can often find them in the list next to AF-Mode modes (see image above).

Choosing AF-Area modes means that you tell the camera which area you want to focus on your subject. For example, if you want to shoot something and have it on the side of the frame, you have to tell the camera that your subject is in the area on the side of the frame.

  AF-Area modes specify how the autofocus points are used to accurately achieve focus within a scene.

  But wait! What is the meaning of Fox Points?

  Understanding the focus points is the first step before determining the best AF-Area mode. Let's first get to know the meaning of the fox points in the camera.

  What do we mean by Focus Points?

  Focus points are what the camera uses to focus on a subject. You'll notice it when you press the shutter button halfway. Some autofocus points — often red or green — light up in the viewfinder or on the LCD screen.

  Mirrorless cameras and modern DSLRs have many focus points, which can usually be seen through the viewfinder or on the LCD screen. Whereas on older DSLRs, you could only see the focal points through the Viewfinder.

  Fortunately, in all of the more advanced camera modes (when I say camera modes I mean the shooting modes in the mode dial at the top of the camera and not the focus modes we saw at the top), you can specify which autofocus points you want the camera to use to focus on your subject, or in other words, Others Tell the camera where you want to focus on your subject.

  The AF Area Mode is what helps us choose the points we need to focus on our subjects, for example, I want to shoot a stationary object and make it in the middle of the frame, in this case, I need one focus point because my subject is stationary. That's why I'm going to tell the camera that I only need the midpoint.

  If I want to photograph a cat walking in city alleys, I must first select AF-C or AF-A mode because my subject is moving, then tell the camera that for example I need all the focus points that my camera has in order not to lose focus on my subject, or I can simply let The camera selects the focus point automatically.

  You will either have a dedicated radio button for selecting AF-Area modes, or you will find them in the Menu.

  Camera focus points

  Typically, the more expensive the camera, the higher the AF points. For example, entry-level cameras like the Nikon D3300 have 11 focal points. Therefore, you will find it at a low price compared to cameras that have many automatic focus points, such as the professional Sony A9 camera that has 693 focus points.

  Some newer cameras, such as the Canon EOS 7D that have a large number of focus points, have very clever AF systems, which not only allow you to choose individual points but also allow you to choose a group or section of the image to focus on. This reduces the possibility of a focus error.

  Having a camera with a large number of autofocus points is especially useful if you want to take a lot of action shots, such as shooting pets and children, meaning moving subjects. With a greater number of autofocus points, you can reduce the chances of the subject moving away from the focus point. Whereas if you are shooting portraits or landscapes, i.e. still photos in general, a few Focus Points will do, as you can easily adjust your subjects or position.

  After understanding the true meaning of focus points, let's now dive into the different AF-Area modes, where we'll see the main types, how they work, and when you should use them.

  SINGLE-POINT AF AREA MODE

  Designations of this mode in common types of cameras:

• Nikon: Single-Point AF

• Canon: Manual AF Point

• Sony: Center / Flexible Spot

  When you select the “single point” automatic focus area mode, the camera uses only one focus point that you choose to focus on your subject, and you can move it.

  So if you move your focus point up/down/left/right, the camera will focus only on that specific focus point.

  This mode gives you extreme accuracy, as it allows you to select only one AF point. This means that you can tell the camera exactly where you want to focus. It's more suitable for stationary or slow-moving subjects, as it is difficult to keep this focus point in line with something that is moving quickly.

120mm f/5 1/125s ISO640

  Less expensive camera models, or sometimes older cameras, have a few focus points where you can easily select and move a single point area.

  But the advanced models have a lot of focus points, for example, if you want to move points When focusing to the far right of the frame, this process will take some time, so these cameras usually reduce the number of focus points when using this mode, to make it easier for you to move the focus point.

  For example, the Sony A9 camera contains 693 focus points. When you use the single point mode, it will be difficult for you to move this point to the place you want to focus on, because the number of points is many. So the camera reduces the number of points to make it easier to move from one to the other.

  DYNAMIC AF AREA

  Designations of this mode by common camera types:

• Nikon: Dynamic AF area

• Canon: AF Point Expansion

• Sony: Lock-on: Flexible spot

  With this mode, you can also manually select a single focus point, but if the subject moves, the camera uses the point you selected as well as some of the points around it to keep the subject sharp and not lost. To do this, you need to track the subject with the camera to make sure that it stays close to the focus point you selected or the points around it.

  Dynamic Auto Focus Zone mode works great with fast-moving targets, such as birds because it's not easy to keep the focus on the birds in flight.

  Digital cameras (DSLRs) and mirrorless cameras can control the number of focus points surrounding the point you select.

  For example, the Nikon D810 allows a choice of 9, 21, and 51 points in dynamic autofocus area mode (see image below). So, if you only want to track a small part of the scene, you'd choose 9 points and if you wanted to track the entire frame, you could choose all 51 points to track your subject.

  As for using different dynamic area modes, in most scenes, it is better to use smaller area modes and fewer points (9 points).

  Whereas in other cases, you may need a larger area mode that uses all the available focus points, such as when you are shooting different subjects moving at different speeds and directions.

  When it comes to choosing between the 1-point autofocus mode that we explained in the previous paragraph, and the dynamic autofocus area mode, consider whether or not your target is moving. If you are working with a fixed subject, the single-point autofocus zone mode is best.

  Whereas if there is movement in the scene, use the Dynamic Auto Focus area mode to select the first focus point and track the subject with the camera!

  In this focus area mode, Nikon also provides 3D focus tracking, which includes color recognition to improve focusing accuracy. Let's go deeper into this point.

   3D focus tracking

  Many newer Nikon DSLRs have a 3D focus tracking mode, where you select the AF point manually, and the camera will automatically activate as many focus points as needed to track the movement of the subject.

  The great thing about 3D Tracking mode is that it uses a special scene recognition system, which actually reads the colors and automatically tracks your subject, allowing you to compose the shot as the subject moves. For example, if you are photographing a white bird among several blackbirds, the 3D tracking system will automatically focus and track the white bird, even if the bird moves, or if you move the camera.

  Full 3D Tracking modes use as many points as you need to focus on the target. These modes can look great and more convenient, but, as mentioned earlier, the more focus points a camera has, the more difficult it is to focus precisely on the subject.

  So I advise you to use 9 points dynamic zone mode and pan camera, instead of using 3D. Why? I'll explain why by identifying the difference between them.

  The difference between 3D focus and AF-Area dynamic mode

  If you compare 3D tracking with dynamic focus-area mode by specifying a certain number of focus points, 3D-tracking will use all available focus points on the camera to track your subject, while dynamic AF-area mode divides the focus points into “zones”, activating surrounding focus points Only (as far as you specified). For example, if you choose 9 focus points, subject tracking will only work within an area of ​​a total of 9 focus points surrounding your chosen focus point. If your subject moves away from all nine focus points, the camera will not be able to focus on the subject. But this gives you a sharper focus.

   In 3D tracking mode, the camera will continue to track the subject, even if it is far away from the initial focus point. But the more focus points a camera has, the more difficult it is to focus precisely on the subject.

  Therefore, I recommend that you use the dynamic AF area mode more often when photographing wildlife, and use fewer active focus points (between 9 and 21 focus points). But if the action is too chaotic and you have a bunch of random birds flying towards you, then choosing the 3D tracking mode does a fairly good job of finding your subject to focus on and keeping track of constantly.

  Group-Area AF Mode

  Designations of this mode according to the common types of cameras:

• Nikon: Group AF area

• Canon: Zone AF

• Sony: Zone

  Group AF mode uses five focus points to track subjects instead of one.

  When using this mode and looking through the Viewfinder, you will see four focus points, while the fifth point is hidden in the middle.

   You can move all 4 focus points in all directions, but ideally, I advise you to leave these points in the middle, because the focus points in the center of the frame are of the cross-type and the most accurate.

  How does Group-Area AF work?

  When pointing the camera at a subject, all five focus points are activated simultaneously to obtain initial focus, prioritizing the subject closest to the camera.

  This mode differs slightly from the 9-point Dynamic Area (D9) mode that we explained in the previous paragraph, because the D9 uses 8 focus points around the central focus point, prioritizing the center focus point you manually selected. If the camera fails to focus with the center focus point chosen, it attempts to focus with the other eight focus points.

  Whereas group AF mode uses all five focus points simultaneously and will attempt to focus on the closest subject to the camera, without giving preference to any of the five focus points. Therefore, this mode is suitable for photographing a group of people so that all faces will appear clearly. Also, using this mode, the camera focuses on the closest object to the camera.

  When can I use Group-Area AF mode?

  Group-area automatic focus is especially useful when photographing birds, wildlife, and sports. In the image below, if your goal is to focus on the front runner, Group-Area AF will work for you, as it will automatically gain focus and follow the runner closest to the camera. So there is no danger of the runner's focus jumping in the back.

160mm f/5.6 1/1250 ISO200

  Another good example, you want to depict a bird standing on a tree branch, and the ground behind the bird is clearly visible. If you use dynamic AF mode that uses the center point as well as the points around it, in this mode all the camera is pointing at is where it will focus, if you point the camera at the bird, the camera will focus on the bird. If you mistakenly point to the ground behind it, the camera will focus on the background rather than the bird. This can be very difficult when photographing small birds, especially when the branch or stick they are standing on is moving.

But with Group-Area AF, there is no particular preference for any focus point, so all five focus points are active simultaneously. In this particular case, since the bird is the closest thing to the camera, and as long as one of the five focus points is near the bird, the camera will always focus on the bird and not the background.

  Once focus is obtained, group-area AF will also track the subject, but I repeat, only if one of the five focus points is near the main subject if the subject is moving quickly and you cannot effectively move the camera in the same direction, the focus will be lost, similar to what Occurs in dynamic AF mode 9.

  In terms of tracking, I personally find group-area AF to be very fast, but it's hard to tell if it's as fast as Dynamic 9 AF - in some cases, Dynamic 9 AF appears to be a little faster.

  Using Group-Area AF mode for face detection

  Another important fact I should mention, is that when using Group-Area AF in AF-S mode, the camera can recognize faces and try to focus on the eye of the closest person, which is great. For example, if you are photographing a person among the branches and leaves of a tree, the camera will always try to focus on the person's face rather than the branch closest to the camera.

100mm f/2.8 1/125 ISO125

  Unfortunately, facial recognition is only activated in AF-S mode, but this mode is only suitable for shooting still subjects. So if you're shooting fast-moving team sports and need the camera to lock and track on the subject's face (and not on the closest object), the best area mode to use is Dynamic Autofocus mode along with AF-C.

  AUTO AF AREA

  Designations of this mode according to the common types of cameras:

• Nikon): Auto AF Area Mode

• Canon: Auto AF Area

• Sony: Wide

  This automatic mode will automatically select vox points. Because it recognizes the skin tones of the person in the frame and will focus on them automatically. If there are multiple people in the scene, it will focus on the people closest to the camera. If the camera does not detect any skin tones, it will usually focus on the nearest and largest object in the frame.

  If you shoot in AF-S mode and select “Auto-Area AF”, the camera will display the focus points you will be using for a second, allowing you to see the area the camera is focusing on.

  Also used in situations where you need to focus quickly on something close to the camera.

  But the camera can pick the wrong subject or the wrong part of the subject to focus on.

  I never use this mode, because I want to control where to focus, rather than letting the camera do it for me.

  It is the best mode for novice photographers who are starting to use the camera's AF modes, if you are a beginner I advise you to leave the focus area modes on this mode and play around with the AF modes (AF-S, AF-C, AF-A).

  If you want to control what you should focus on in your photo, this mode is not for you.

  EYE AF MODE

  If you're a portrait photographer, eye autofocus is a mode you'll use regularly. The eyes are the most important component of this field, and getting a sharp focus on such small targets can be a challenge, especially when using a shallow depth of field.

60mm f/2.8 1/125s ISO400

  Mirrorless cameras are pioneering in eye recognition. Nikon Z series cameras now include Eye-Detection AF as standard along with the usual focus modes. Canon also uses Eye AF in its EOS R lineup.

  However, of all the major manufacturers, Sony has the best eye AF system. It tracks the eye reliably, even if your subject is moving, wearing glasses, or looking down.

  Sony's Eye AF works on animals, so you can use it for wildlife photography, too.

  Finally, keep in mind that AF-area modes are constantly evolving. New features are provided with every model update and technology advances, so make sure your camera has the latest firmware updates to get new features, better modes, and autofocus area performance!

  How to change the AF-Area modes on the camera?

To learn how to change the AF-Area modes on your camera, once again, I recommend checking out your camera manual.

If you have an entry-level camera, you often have to use the Camera menu (Menu) to change the AF-Area modes.

If you have a high-end DSLR or Mirrorless camera, you may be able to quickly switch between different AF-Area modes, by pressing a combination of different buttons. For example, on a Nikon D850 DSLR camera, you have to press the same AF modes button on the front of the camera, then rotate the front dial (sub-command dial) to change the AF area mode.

Regardless of the manufacturer, all high-end camera bodies have a dedicated switch for selecting the best AF-Area mode.

   5. What is the AF-On button on the camera?

  Most cameras automatically focus when the shutter button is pressed halfway. While this is a great feature, there are times when you'll want the two actions - focus and take a picture - to be separate from each other and I'll show you why.

  Most cameras allow you to do this by locking focus with a separate button, often called AF-On, and removing it from the shooting button.

  This button may not seem like a huge benefit, but you'll run into a lot of situations where you don't want the camera to refocus just by pressing the shutter button, so AF-On is an important feature, and we recommend using it instead of half-pressing the shutter if possible. There are no negatives to using it, but there are many positives.

  When does AF-On help with a photo?

  In case you want to lock focus to take multiple photos of the same subject:

  Simply press the AF-On button to focus, then don't press it again until you've taken the set of photos you want.

  If you want to focus and reconfigure:

  Let's say you want an image composition where your subject is at the edge of the image. In this case, if your camera has as few as 11 focus points, the AF points may not reach the side of the frame where you want your subject to be.

  So, you have to focus only using one of the points you have, then hold down the shutter button, and move the camera to get the composition of the image where your subject is at the edge of the frame, with no finger on the shutter button, and then take the picture.

  However, with the AF-On button, you can press it once to lock the focus, then you can compose the image as you like instead of holding the shutter button halfway all the time.

  If you need to wait a bit before taking the photo:

  You may find yourself in situations where you need to focus, and then wait a while before taking a picture. For example, maybe you want to photograph a young child in the garden, and you are waiting for him to jump. With the AF-On button, you can focus in the right place and wait, then shoot as fast as you can when the time is right – while still being ready to refocus quickly if the subject moves out of frame.

  For these reasons, we highly recommend switching the camera from focus to AF-On. If you always use the shutter button to focus, it may be a little tricky in the first few days after getting started with this button, but it's something you won't regret in the end. (Some cameras don't have an AF-On button, but you'll always find one that serves the same purpose.)

  Now you have all the information related to the Focus, including Manual Focus, Auto Focus, and its settings, as well as AF-Area Modes...etc. It will only be left to you how to apply it in real life. In the next paragraph, I'll give you some key steps to focus on your goals to get perfect sharpness or accuracy.

   6. Basic Steps to Focus in Photography

  As a photographer, there is nothing worse than a blurry photo of a great moment. If you want to learn how to focus on the camera, practice the following steps to make sure you always keep your subject in focus!

  1. Decide where you want to focus in the photo

  This is due to the technical configuration! Are you looking to highlight a subject in the foreground and make the background blurry? Or do you want to shoot a photo where the background and foreground are prominent and clear?

  If you want to highlight your subject without caring about the background this is very easy because you know what you are going to focus on, you should just choose a large aperture of f/1.8 or f/2 to get a narrow depth of field i.e. a blurry background. About focus, we must apply what we saw above, meaning either manually adjust the focus on your subject or choose the automatic focus mode and the appropriate area setting for your topic.

  But if you are abroad for landscape photography. You have a great foreground and background, and you want to focus on everything as much as possible. Naturally, you would consider setting a small aperture of f/11 or f/16 for a wide depth of field so that everything in your image is clear. However, not everything in your frame will be sharp. Aperture alone will not suffice.

  The truth is that lenses can't keep everything - from what's directly in front of you to the horizon - acceptably sharp at the same time. You can focus on something very close at the risk of blurring the background. Or you can focus on something far away and risk blurring the elements of the foreground.

  If you wanted an image where all the elements are clear, i.e. an image with a depth of field, where would you focus?

  when photographing For portraits of landscapes, architecture, or any type of photography that requires a deep depth of field, you'll have to focus on something called super focus distance. Do not panic! I will explain more!

  Hyperfocal Distance

  It is the focal point you should focus on to give your images the greatest depth of field.

  For example, consider a landscape in which you want everything — foreground and background — to appear sharp. If you focus on the foreground, the background will appear blurry in the image. And if you focus on the background, the foreground will look out of focus! How does this fit? Simple: you have to focus on a point between the foreground and background, which makes the foreground and background elements in the scene look sharp. This focus point is called the super focus distance.

  The method I usually use to get the perfect sharpness in my photos is simply this table:

  Focus distance selection table

  For example, if you have a Crop Sensor camera, i.e. APS-C in the table above, and you use a 24mm lens with an f/5.8 aperture, the point you should focus on will be 17 feet away from your camera.

  And if you have a Full Frame camera, and you use a 20mm lens with an f/22 aperture, the point you should focus on will be two feet away from the camera...and so on.

  Apps for calculating Hyperfocal Distance

  But another easy way to calculate the super focus distance is to download an app that does this process. Like the Hyperfocal DOF app. easy to use  All you have to do is write the name of your camera, then the focal length of your lens (16mm, 24mm, 35mm…), and the aperture you use for shooting (f/2.8, f/5.6, f/8…). Then choose if you want the focal distance in meters, tap Meters, or tap Feet. Finally, click on CALCULATE HYPERFOCAL. The distance you got is the distance between your camera and the point you should focus on.

  Many other applications calculate focal distance: Hyperfocal Pro, Hyperfocal Free calculator … etc.

  In my personal opinion, I highly recommend Photopills, it is not free, its price is 10 dollars but it will help you a lot in this process, and in many other operations.

  PhotoPills offers tools for calculating the focal distance (Hyperfocal Distance), exposure time, depth of field, the field of view, time-lapse, and, much more. The app also includes how-to articles. If you want a photography companion that does practically everything, then this app is perfect.

  Now let's get back to the topic of hyperfocal distance when your scene has nothing in the foreground to focus on, but you want to focus on the distant mountains in the background. In this case, use focus on infinity.

  In another article, I'll explain how to use the Hyperfocal Distance to get the perfect sharpness in photos.

I think everything is clear about the first step of how to focus in photography, now let's move on to the second step.

  2. Manual Focus Vs AUTOFOCUS

  Choosing to use manual focus, or autofocus depends on the amount of time you have to adjust your focus and the lighting conditions within the scene.

  The camera usually struggles to autofocus in low light, so the manual focus option is best in this case. When photographing the Milky Way, for example. Or if the subject is stationary (landscape photography). But if you want to photograph something moving, a bird or a person standing among the trees, etc., read on!

  3. Switch focus from “M” to “AF” on lens and camera

  If you decide to use the camera's autofocus, you must switch the camera focus to this mode. Most in-camera focus is controlled by a dedicated switch on the lens or body labeled AF/MF or A/M.

  By enabling autofocus on the viewfinder, you are now able to manipulate the camera's autofocus modes that were discussed earlier.

  4. Select AUTOFOCUS Modes

  Once the autofocus function is activated, you must choose the best autofocus mode for your subject.

• Single AF (AF-S) is ideal for portraits and landscapes and is the usual choice if you're shooting a still subject.

• Auto Continuous Focus (AF-C) is best if your subject is moving, such as with wildlife or action photography.

• Choose AF-A if your subject is unexpected and can be stationary or moving, such as birds.

  5. Adjust the focus area style according to the subject (AUTOFOCUS Area Mode)

  When you get to the point of choosing an AF-Area mode, you need to ask yourself a few questions: How many AF points do you think you'll need to shoot a bird on a tree branch while keeping it clear? Are your subject static and do you want to photograph it and have it centered in the composition or frame? If so, a single point is the best area position to use in this situation. But if your subject is moving across the frame like a bird, the Dynamic Zone mode is the best option.

  Remember that focus points in photography are key to detecting and tracking your subject, and the central focus point is the fastest and most accurate. You can also leave the tracking and focus the image on the camera's automatic system by selecting the AF-area mode in a few specific situations if you have to.

  6. Press the shutter button halfway or use the focus on the back button (AF-On)

  Press the shutter-release button (also called the shutter-release button) halfway to focus. Once a focused image is detected, the camera will beep, turn the focus point green, or use some other method to confirm focus. This varies by camera make and model.

  If you're using continuous AF (AF-C) and your subject is in motion, leave your finger on the button and only hold the button halfway down, so the AF can track your subject.

  Then simply press the shutter button well to take a picture!

  Many photographers also use the AF-On button which I explained well above. If you focus this way, simply press once on the AF-ON button to focus and track the subject, and the shutter-release button to shoot.

  7. Check your focus and readjust if necessary

  Take a look at your photo and check if your focus is right!

  To do this, always use the camera's LCD screen, and magnify the main details of the image. If the focus is not as good as you expected, try to focus slower if you are using manual focus, or use a different focus area if you have used autofocus.

  Focusing on photography can seem challenging, but the more you understand how focusing works, the faster this process becomes!

   Conclusion

  We hope this Guide to Focusing in Photography will help you understand the many uses of your camera's focusing systems. If AF is your preference, understanding both the camera focus and AF-area modes will ensure that you get the most out of your photography focus points.

  However, I recommend practicing in manual focus mode, especially in situations that present a challenge to the camera's autofocus, such as shooting in low light.

  No matter which focus method you choose, don't forget to check your focus on the LCD screen after shooting and zoom in on the details to see if everything is as accurate as you want it to be.

  Focus is a deep subject in photography that is very important to understand. When your images are properly focused, they will be sharp and detailed, with a sense of intent and skill behind them. This applies to all types of photography, from sports to landscapes. It's best to learn things the right way so you don't fall into bad habits along the way.

  If there's anything else you want to know about understanding focus points or how focus works in photography, feel free to leave a comment below!